Transylvania is home to more than the legend of Dracula. Its vineyards are estimated to span more than 5,000 hectares, dotted with fortified churches, fortresses and charming, historical villages that have caught the eye of scholars, travel experts, influencers and celebrities, including UK’s King Charles III.
The Transylvania Plateau (Podișul Transilvaniei) stands out among other Romanian viticultural regions due to its higher altitudes, with most vineyards located at 400-600 meters above sea level, but going as high as 800 meters. Its cooler climate is considered ideal for white grapes, and indeed Riesling, Italian Riesling, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer flourish, alongside the lesser-known imports Neuburger or Kerner.
But the region shines brightest for its two local grapes, Fetească Albă (roughly translated as “white maiden”) and Fetească Regală (roughly translated as “royal maiden”). The first is centuries, possibly thousands of years old. The second dates back to circa 1903, the result of the wave of improvement research in post-phylloxera Europe. But both provide crisp, pleasantly acidic white wines, with defined, fresh aroma profiles, that please the connoisseur and newbie palates alike.
Sources as old as 1051 CE praise wines from the Transylvania Plateau for their vigor and quality, and today’s techniques maximize the region’s diverse microclimates and soils, prompting experts to highlight their delicate minerality (Smith, Rod. “Romanian Wine: A Region Coming of Age.” Jancis Robinson, 2020, jancisrobinson.com) or balance of fruit and acidity (Gilby, Caroline. “Romania’s Wines: An Exploration of Its Native Grapes.” Decanter, 2018, decanter.com.)
Not to be confused with the neighboring Republic of Moldova, Romania’s province of Moldova is known for its rich winemaking history. The dignity of cupbearer (paharnic) to its princes was documented as early as the 14th century, and it was noted that being the taster included oversight of the cellars and vineyards, and often came with great trust and weight at court.
Today, the hills of Moldova rank first among the viticultural areas in Romania, estimated at circa 20,000 hectares. Its gentle-sloping hills accommodate vineyards at circa 180 meters altitude, lower than many other Romanian regions. The region was particularly noted for its sweet and semi-sweet wines, often produced from indigenous grape varieties, but has since become a pole of innovative winemaking that takes advantage or autochthonous varieties to create wines that are drinkable internationally.
Some of the older documented regions, such as Cotnari, have grapes named after them. Most notable, Grasă de Cotnari, an aromatic variety that made its way as far as Tokaji and is described as the jewel in Romanis’ crown (Currin, Tamlyn. “Grasă de Cotnari: Romania’s Sweetest Legacy.” Wine-Searcher, 2019, wine-searcher.com) and Busuioacă de Bohotin, one of the world’s rare pink-skinned grapes. Frâncușă and Zghihară, hard to pronounce, but easy to enjoy, are made across the region, and exciting sparkling versions can be found at Domeniile Cotnari.
While the region is mostly known for whites (sweet or dry), visitors rave about Băbească Neagră. Where Fetească would translate as maidenly, or girlish (and Fetescă Neagră, though the signature grape of the Dealu Mare wine district, further south, thrives in the Moldavian Hills), Băbească translates as ”old lady” or “crone”, a name that hides the delightful red wine with medium body and full aromas that can be obtained from this old, traditional variety.
Centered around Romania’s best known and prized wine district, Dealu’ Mare, the Muntenia and Oltenia Hills spread across contiguous wine regions covering almost all the country’s historical province of Wallachia. Some of Romania’s most famed wine districts (the aforementioned Dealu’ Mare, Drăgășani, Sâmburești) are found in this varied, generous wine region that extends to approximately 20,000 hectares. The terroir is different, district to district, and each wine district stands out for its own take on winemaking.
Dealu’ Mare is home to Romania’s famed Fetească Negră, a grape whose full body and grape-skin tannins make it an age-worthy, distinctive red. It can go high in alcohol (15.6% ABV, in some cases), but retains a plum fruitiness that even those who prefer whites will enjoy tasting. Wine escapes to the region, however, go beyond the signature grape. Tămâioasă Românească has found a great expression here, and the vineyards in the sub-district of Pietroasele excel at taking this aromatic varietal and turning it into great sweet, semi-sweet and dry white wines. White grapes from Transylvania, such as Fetească Albă, take on a different character, pleasing to lovers of distinctive, albeit light aromas. The area is nothing, but vineyards, scenic hill after scenic hill, with beautiful winery buildings and excellent restaurants highlighting what is still known as the “Romanian Wine Road”.
In the same broad region, but some hundred kilometers away in distance, and miles away in approach, lies Drăgășani, a hub of premium winemaking, and innovation with respect to the origins. The region’s oldest attested winery (Stirbey), reprised winemaking after the quantity over quality push of the communists, and now makes splendid wines from local grapes such as the white Crâmpoșie Selecționată, and the newer red varietals Negru de Drăgășani and Novac. Newer wineries (notably Venetic) are also reaping the benefits of rolling hills, favorable aspects and 200-300 meter altitudes to make sturdy red wines with fruit and body, and whites with character
The Banat Hills (Dealurile Banatului), located in western Romania, are characterized by gentle slopes and moderate climates conducive to both indigenous and international grape varieties.
The Crișana Wine Region (Podgoria Crișanei), located in northwestern Romania, is characterized by a cooler climate and rolling hills. It is particularly known for its historical association with indigenous varieties and its ability to produce fresh, aromatic wines.
The Maramureș Wine Region (Podgoria Maramureșului), situated in the northernmost part of Romania, is a smaller but distinctive area known for its traditional winemaking and cold-hardy varieties. Its unique position between mountains and plains creates wines with a strong sense of place.
The Danube Delta and Black Sea Coast Region (Delta Dunării și Litoral) occupies the southeastern edge of Romania, marked by maritime influences that create a mild climate ideal for diverse grape varieties. This region excels in both white and sparkling wines.
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